@font-face{font-family:Heading Fallback;src:local("Georgia");size-adjust:112%}:root{--brand:#d97706;--brand-dark:#92400e;--brand-ink:#92400e;--btn-fill:#b45309;--accent:#fbbf24;--scrim:#2a1503;--bg:#fff7ed;--bg-elevated:#fff;--bg-deep:#ffedd5;--text:#1e293b;--text-muted:#475569;--brand-soft:color-mix(in srgb,var(--brand) 12%,transparent);--brand-glow:color-mix(in srgb,var(--brand) 26%,transparent);--tile-radius:1.75rem;--tile-radius-hover:1.75rem;--section-curve:3.5rem;--shadow-soft:0 18px 44px -18px color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 22%,transparent);--shadow-deep:0 30px 60px -30px color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 55%,transparent);--font-heading:"Playfair Display","Heading Fallback",Georgia,serif;--font-body:"Inter",system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe 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var(--brand-ink);outline-offset:3px;border-radius:4px}.container{width:min(var(--container),92%);margin-inline:auto}.grid-12{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);gap:clamp(1rem,2.5vw,2rem)}.section{padding-block:var(--space-2xl);position:relative}.page-flow{position:relative;z-index:2;border-radius:var(--section-curve) var(--section-curve) 0 0;margin-top:calc(-1 * max(var(--section-curve), 3rem));padding-top:clamp(2rem,5vw,3.5rem);padding-bottom:5rem;background:radial-gradient(60rem 42rem at 88% -6%,var(--brand-glow),transparent 60%),radial-gradient(52rem 40rem at -12% 62%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--accent) 14%,transparent),transparent 62%),linear-gradient(180deg,var(--bg) 0,color-mix(in srgb,var(--bg) 55%,#fff) 46%,var(--bg-deep) 100%)}.page-flow--flat{margin-top:0;border-radius:0;padding-top:0}.site-header{position:fixed;inset-inline:0;top:0;z-index:100;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--bg) 78%,transparent);backdrop-filter:blur(16px) 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2px;color:var(--brand-dark)}.kicker{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.7rem;font-size:var(--step-xs);font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--brand-ink);margin:0 0 1rem}.kicker:before{content:"";width:2.5rem;height:2px;background:var(--accent);flex:none}.kicker--onphoto{color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.95);text-shadow:0 1px 10px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}.kicker--onphoto:before{background:var(--accent);box-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.35)}.tag{display:inline-block;font-size:var(--step-xs);font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.92);text-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}.tag+.tag{margin-left:1rem}.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:.5rem;padding:.8rem 1.6rem;border-radius:999px;font-weight:650;font-size:.95rem;text-decoration:none;border:0;cursor:pointer;transition:transform .18s,box-shadow .18s,background .18s,color 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1.1rem;font-size:.85rem}.hero-cover{position:relative;display:grid;align-items:end;min-height:min(100svh,56rem);padding-top:6rem}.hero-cover__media{position:absolute;inset:0;overflow:hidden}.hero-cover__img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;-o-object-fit:cover;object-fit:cover}.hero-cover__scrim{position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(178deg,rgba(0,0,0,.24) 0,rgba(0,0,0,.18) 30%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 34%,rgba(0,0,0,.22)) 56%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 84%,#000) 100%)}.hero-cover__media:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;mix-blend-mode:soft-light;background:linear-gradient(160deg,var(--brand) 0,transparent 60%);opacity:.35}.hero-cover__grid{position:relative;z-index:3;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);gap:1rem;align-items:end;padding-bottom:clamp(2.5rem,6vh,4.5rem)}.hero-cover__content{grid-column:1/10}.hero-cover__title{font-size:var(--step-display);line-height:.98;letter-spacing:-.025em;color:#fff;max-width:14ch;margin-bottom:.75rem;text-shadow:0 2px 22px rgba(0,0,0,.38)}.hero-cover__sub{font-size:1.125rem;color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.92);max-width:52ch;margin-bottom:1.5rem;text-shadow:0 1px 12px rgba(0,0,0,.45)}.hero-cover__index{grid-column:10/13;justify-self:end;align-self:end;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.65rem;font-size:.88rem;padding-bottom:.4rem}.hero-cover__index-label{font-size:var(--step-xs);font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.65)}.hero-cover__index a{color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.92);max-width:24ch;text-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.55)}.hero-cover__index a:hover{color:#fff}.hero-cover__index-label{text-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.55)}.booking-dock{position:relative;z-index:3;display:inline-flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem;padding:.5rem;border-radius:999px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--bg-elevated) 72%,transparent);backdrop-filter:blur(20px) saturate(1.4);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(20px) saturate(1.4);box-shadow:0 24px 60px -24px color-mix(in srgb,var(--brand) 35%,rgba(0,0,0,.25));margin-bottom:-1.4rem}.booking-dock .btn-light{background:var(--btn-fill);color:#fff}.booking-dock .btn-light:hover{background:var(--brand-dark);color:#fff}.booking-dock .btn-glass{background:transparent;color:var(--brand-ink);box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1.5px color-mix(in srgb,var(--brand-ink) 38%,transparent);backdrop-filter:none;-webkit-backdrop-filter:none}.booking-dock .btn-glass:hover{background:var(--brand-soft);color:var(--brand-dark)}.hero-cover--inset{display:block;min-height:0;padding:8.5rem 0 5.5rem}.hero-cover--inset .hero-cover__media{position:relative;inset:auto;width:min(var(--container),92%);margin:2.25rem auto 0;overflow:visible}.hero-cover--inset .hero-cover__img{position:relative;inset:auto;aspect-ratio:16/8;border-radius:3.5rem 1.5rem 3.5rem 1.5rem;box-shadow:var(--shadow-deep)}.hero-cover--inset .hero-cover__media:before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:-3rem -4rem 30% auto;width:46vw;background:radial-gradient(closest-side,var(--brand-glow),transparent);filter:blur(48px);z-index:-1}.hero-cover--inset .hero-cover__media:after,.hero-cover--inset .hero-cover__scrim{display:none}.hero-cover--inset .hero-cover__grid{padding-bottom:0}.hero-cover--inset .hero-cover__title{color:var(--text)}.hero-cover--inset .hero-cover__sub{color:var(--text-muted)}.hero-cover--inset .kicker--onphoto{color:var(--brand-ink)}.hero-cover--inset .booking-dock{margin-bottom:0;box-shadow:var(--shadow-soft)}.hero-cover--inset .hero-cover__index{display:none}.section-head{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);gap:1rem;align-items:end;margin-bottom:clamp(2rem,5vw,3.5rem);counter-increment:section}.section-head__eyebrow{grid-column:1/2;writing-mode:vertical-rl;transform:rotate(180deg);justify-self:start;align-self:start;font-size:var(--step-xs);font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--brand-ink);margin:0}.section-head__eyebrow:after{content:" / " counter(section,decimal-leading-zero);color:var(--text-muted)}.section-head h2{grid-column:2/8;font-size:var(--step-3xl);margin:0}.section-head__aside{grid-column:8/13;justify-self:end;text-align:right;color:var(--text-muted);font-size:.98rem;max-width:34rem}.section-head__aside p{margin:0}.section-head__aside 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.6s cubic-bezier(.33,1,.68,1)}.tile:hover{border-radius:var(--tile-radius-hover)}.tile__img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;-o-object-fit:cover;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .7s var(--ease-out)}.tile:hover .tile__img{transform:scale(1.06)}.tile__scrim{position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(to top,color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 86%,#000) 0,color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 45%,rgba(0,0,0,.16)) 42%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 10%,rgba(0,0,0,.1)) 74%,rgba(0,0,0,.08) 100%)}.tile__body{width:100%;padding:clamp(1.1rem,2vw,1.6rem);z-index:2}.tile__kicker{display:block;font-size:var(--step-xs);font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:color-mix(in srgb,var(--brand) 34%,#fff);margin-bottom:.45rem;text-shadow:0 1px 6px rgba(0,0,0,.45)}.tile__title{font-size:var(--step-xl);line-height:1.18;margin:0 0 .5rem}.tile__title a{color:#fff}.tile__title a:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0}.tile__meta{font-size:.85rem;color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.75);display:flex;gap:.6rem}.tile__badge{display:none}.tile:focus-within{outline:3px solid var(--brand);outline-offset:4px}.entry-list{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:clamp(2.5rem,6vw,4.5rem)}.entry{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);gap:0 1rem}.entry__figure{grid-column:1/9;grid-row:1;margin:0}.entry__figure img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/10;-o-object-fit:cover;object-fit:cover;border-radius:var(--tile-radius);box-shadow:var(--shadow-deep);transition:border-radius .6s cubic-bezier(.33,1,.68,1)}.entry:hover .entry__figure img{border-radius:var(--tile-radius-hover)}.entry__body{grid-column:6/13;grid-row:1;align-self:end;position:relative;z-index:2;background:var(--bg-elevated);border-radius:1.75rem;padding:clamp(1.5rem,3vw,2.25rem) clamp(1.5rem,3vw,2.5rem);margin:4rem 0 -1.75rem;box-shadow:0 24px 50px -28px rgba(0,0,0,.25)}.entry:nth-child(2n) .entry__figure{grid-column:5/13}.entry:nth-child(2n) .entry__body{grid-column:1/8}.entry__no{font-variant-caps:all-small-caps;letter-spacing:.12em;color:var(--brand-ink);font-weight:600;margin-bottom:.3rem}.entry__title{font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.4vw,2rem);margin-bottom:.5rem}.entry__title a{color:var(--text)}.entry__title a:hover{color:var(--brand-dark)}.entry__excerpt{color:var(--text-muted);font-size:.98rem;margin-bottom:.75rem}.entry__meta{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--text-muted);display:flex;gap:.75rem;align-items:center}.entry__read{font-weight:650;color:var(--brand-ink)}.breaker{position:relative;height:clamp(240px,38vh,420px);overflow:hidden;margin-block:var(--space-2xl)}.breaker__img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;-o-object-fit:cover;object-fit:cover}.breaker:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 46%,transparent)}.breaker__word{position:absolute;inset:0;display:grid;place-items:center;z-index:2;font-family:var(--font-heading);font-size:clamp(3.25rem,10.5vw,8rem);font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.02em;white-space:nowrap;-webkit-text-stroke:2px hsla(0,0%,100%,.92);color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.12);text-shadow:0 2px 30px rgba(0,0,0,.3)}.cta-band{position:relative;overflow:hidden;border-radius:var(--section-curve) var(--section-curve) 0 0;margin-top:var(--space-2xl);padding:clamp(4rem,9vh,6rem) 0 clamp(4.5rem,10vh,6.5rem)}.cta-band__img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;-o-object-fit:cover;object-fit:cover}.cta-band:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 55%,rgba(0,0,0,.3)) 0,color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 88%,#000) 82%)}.cta-band__inner{position:relative;z-index:2;text-align:center}.cta-band h2,.cta-band h3{color:#fff;font-size:var(--step-3xl);margin-bottom:.5rem}.cta-band p{color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.85);margin-bottom:1.75rem}.cta-band__actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.75rem;justify-content:center}.site-footer{position:relative;z-index:3;background:var(--scrim);border-radius:var(--section-curve) var(--section-curve) 0 0;margin-top:calc(-1 * max(var(--section-curve), 2rem));color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.6);padding:clamp(3rem,6vw,4rem) 0 3.25rem;text-align:center;font-size:.9rem}.site-footer__nav{display:flex;justify-content:center;gap:var(--space-lg);margin-bottom:1rem;font-size:.95rem;flex-wrap:wrap}.site-footer__nav a{color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.78)}.site-footer__nav a:hover{color:#fff}.site-footer__fine{max-width:60ch;margin-inline:auto;opacity:.8}.post-hero{position:relative;display:grid;align-items:end;min-height:min(78svh,46rem);padding-top:7rem}.post-hero__img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;-o-object-fit:cover;object-fit:cover}.post-hero:before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,.25) 0,rgba(0,0,0,.1) 26%,rgba(0,0,0,.1) 60%,transparent 74%),linear-gradient(to top,color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 88%,#000) 0,color-mix(in srgb,var(--scrim) 52%,rgba(0,0,0,.16)) 54%,rgba(0,0,0,.14) 100%)}.post-hero .container{position:relative;z-index:2;padding-bottom:clamp(2.5rem,6vh,4rem)}.post-hero__tags{margin-bottom:.9rem}.post-hero h1{color:#fff;font-size:clamp(2.4rem,5.5vw,5rem);line-height:1.02;max-width:20ch;margin-bottom:1rem;text-shadow:0 2px 22px rgba(0,0,0,.4)}.post-hero--long h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,4vw,3.4rem);max-width:26ch}.post-hero__meta{color:hsla(0,0%,100%,.9);font-size:.95rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.65rem;align-items:center;text-shadow:0 1px 8px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}.post-hero__meta .sep{opacity:.55;font-size:.8rem}.post-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);gap:clamp(1.5rem,3vw,3rem);padding-block:var(--space-2xl)}.post-main{grid-column:1/9;min-width:0}.post-rail{grid-column:9/13}.trip-kit{position:sticky;top:6rem;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--brand) 7%,var(--bg-elevated));border-radius:1.75rem;padding:1.6rem;box-shadow:var(--shadow-soft);display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.6rem}.trip-kit .kicker{margin-bottom:.1rem}.trip-kit h3{font-size:1.35rem;margin:0 0 .4rem}.trip-kit .btn{width:100%}.trip-kit__all{font-size:.88rem;font-weight:650;text-align:center;margin-top:.3rem}.prose{font-size:var(--step-md);line-height:1.8;color:var(--text);max-width:68ch;counter-reset:proseh2}.prose ol,.prose p,.prose ul{margin-bottom:var(--space-md)}.prose li,.prose p{text-wrap:pretty}.prose h2{font-size:var(--step-2xl);margin-top:2.75rem;margin-bottom:var(--space-md);scroll-margin-top:96px;counter-increment:proseh2}.prose h2:before{content:counter(proseh2,decimal-leading-zero);display:block;font-family:var(--font-body);font-size:.8rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.2em;color:var(--brand-ink);margin-bottom:.4rem}.prose h3{font-size:var(--step-xl);margin-top:2rem;margin-bottom:.75rem}.prose 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